Its all about the mountains. An insiders guide to Nepal.

The Perfect Itinerary

We fell completely in love with Kathmandu the first time we visited Nepal.

That was back in 2000. In 2009 we decided to move to Kathmandu to start up a small business – even then we hadn’t been outside the valley! Why should we?

It was a big surprise to read a marketing study prior to the Nepal 2010 Tourism Year: I have always dreamed of seeing Mt. Everest, We want to trek in Himalaya, We want to see the tallest mountains in the world etc. tourist answered when asked about why they came to Nepal.

Except from a few Dharma pilgrims on the way to one of Nepal’s many Dharma sights nobody mentioned art, culture, leisure, music, business opportunities, food, history or all the things we fell in love with!

Nepal was – and still is – about the mountains.

Imagine what would happen if some God took the Himalayas and placed them in Africa?

Then Nobody would visit Nepal?

It’s all about trekking.

Himalaya has been a part of our life for 10 years. But in other ways than most other’s. All our guests go there – it took us 20 years before went to the mountains.

And since they go to the mountains in Nepal they use the occasion to visit Pokhara are Chitwan – the other two destinations on most tourist’s itineraries.

If it wasn’t for the popular Annapurna Circuit and the other treks that starts from Fewa Lake‘s shores Pokhara wouldn’t be as popular as it is today where itt’s the perfect place to relax before and after the trek. Nepal has a lot of other places as beautiful or more.

Same with Sauraha in Chitwan. It’s convenient location on route to Mungling on the Prithvi Highway between Pokhara and Kathmandu makes it the its obvious Elephants and Tigers tourist trap.

Both places af OK and the foreigners like them. And since the local tourist industry is happy whit how things are the majority of tourists get the same package.

A few days in Kathmandu + an afternoon/ evening in Pokhara + Trekking + a day or two in Pokhara to relax after the trek + two days in Chitwan + a few days in Kathmandu before leaving.

The only variations are the length of their stays which last from a couple of weeks to months depending on the length of their trek.

**The Prithvi Highway** used to be an enteresting encounter – today its polluted

Our only problems with this ‘package’ is getting to and from destinations.

You can go by plane. We have done that before – but after a few scary flights we decided never to do it again – it’s too dangerous.

The only alternative is by road (mostly busses) on the Prithvi Highway.

This road used to be OK – but the construction boom in Kathmandu has increased the demand for cement, sand, gravel and other building materials to an extend that Trishuli River where it all comes from is destroyed completely. Beautiful river banks and clear water has turned into bad smelling and polluting factories and the surrounding nature has turned from green to grey & black. And because of the heavily loaded trucks and poorly renovated pavement after the countless landslides the highway is bumpy and trashed and always under construction.

Since all busses leave too late to avoid the heavy trucks leaving Kathmandu valley and since they all stop for snacks & lunch along the way the 200 km trip – that used to be pleasant and OK – takes forever. You always end up spending most of your day.

There is an adventurous and pleasant alternative

When you ask tour agents or guides if there are alternative routes to and from Pokhara the answer is no!

But that’s not true!

In our more than 10 years in Kathmandu we have had a lot of time to kill. So we have been around this beautiful country – in our own cars and driving ourselves – and know most popular destinations better than most of the local agents and/or guides and how to get there.

There is an alternative – and its among the most beautiful routes in Nepal. And opposite what people have told us before we tried it out ourselves the road conditions are good and comfortable and it makes the transportation far more interesting and beautiful compared to the tourist trail.

Tings Circuit – the map

The for Highways: *Prithvi + Siddharta + Mehendra + Tribhuwan*

Tings Circuit – The four highways

1 The Prithvi Highway: From Kathmandu to Pokhara
A few years back you should leave Kathmandu at 6:30 am to avoid all the tourists busses that leaves around 7 am. Today you must leave at 5 am to avoid the heavy and bad smelling trucks. Including a coffee break or two the 200 km trip takes around 4 – 5 hrs which means lunch at Lake Side before before your mountain trek.
2 The Siddharta Highway. From Pokhara via Tansen to Butwal/Terai
You need an afternoon/evening and maybe one more day to to relax and digest their trek before continuing to Terai for Safari in Chitwan National Park or to visit Lord Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbini or both.

Instead of the ‘normal route via to Mugling and Barathpur take the old road Siddharta Highway across the mountains and through picturesque and charmingly colorful villages. The trip takes around 5 hours – but instead of rushing stop over for the night in Tansen in Palpa – 2 hrs from Pokhara. Lots of good hotels.

Sunset from Tansen in Palpa 2 hours from Pokhara on the way to Terrai

3 Mehendra Highway to Chiwtan
You arrive in Terai in Butwal where you either continue to Lumbini for 2 days OR you to Chitwan looking for elephants or just relax.

Instead of going with the crowd to Sauraha we prefer the more authentic, ecofriendly and less touristic (and more expensive) Taru where you find the best Elephant Camp in the world in our opinion (Tiger Tops Elephant Camp) – you can stay for 2 nights but we recommend three.

4 Tribhuwan Highway back to Kathmandu
This is Nepal’s first highway – from 1956. In our opinion one of the most beautiful routes in Nepal. We deliberately do the circuit counter clock wise to get the sunrise from Daman where you get the finest view of the Himalayas extending on a good day from Dhaulagiri in the west to Everest in the east. If you stay the night here you can forget all about going to Dhulikhel or Nargakot.

From Chitwan it takes around 4-5 hrs to reach Daman. If you leave Daman after sunrise & breakfast you will reach Kathmandu after 2- 4 hrs depending on the traffic (its only 50 km).

Tings Circuit is only 670 km or 150 km longer than the crowded tourist trail. Considering the hassle and all the waiting you avoid by takling the circuit the total transportation time ends up being more or less the same. But your rout is way more beautiful, comfortable and adventurous.

Himalayas for Non-Trekkers

In May we went to the mountains for the first time ever! And NO we didn’t walk.

We went by car along the new highway from Pokhara to Muktinath – the Highway that eventually will connect Western Nepal with China.

3 nights/4 days in Lower Mustang – by 4WD

Muktinath in Lower Mustang is only 170 km from Pokhara – around 8 hours by car depending on the weather and traffic.

We went on a 4 night / 5 days from Kathmandu in our own 4WD with driver and a guide. The Mustang trip it self was 3 nights / 4 days.

Mustang for city slingers: 4 Nights – 5 days – itinerary

Day 1: (13 hrs) Leave 5 am: Kathmandu to Tato Pani (natural hot spring)
Day 2: (5:30 hrs) Tatopani to Muktinath, then Jomson
Day 3: Naurikot & Yak blood drinking ceremony at (Boksi Khola) Nauri Khola (Got cancelled)
Day 4: (8/9 hrs) Kalo Pani to Pokhara by jeep.
Day 5: Pokhara to Kathmandu by jeep

Mustang for city slingers: A few impressions

From left: Our friend Jannick, Annette & Thomas
Breathtaking Nature – and unadventurous weather
She brought Thomas a cold beer…
Last rays of the Sun
Kutsab Teransa Monastary – the traditional prayer flags
Not “The stairway to Heaven” – but close. The gate to Kutsab Teransa Monastary
“Wish I could sit inside that Jeep”
Kutsab Teransa Monastary – Annette meditates
Kutsab Teransa Monastary – get a cup of tea.

Tings Circuit + Mustang-for-Non-Trekkers = The Perfect Nepal Travel!

4 days may seem like plenty of time for such a short distance. But as we were 100 % in control we went to places that would take a day to reach by foot, we saw places nobody would visit and we spend time doing nothing – which means looking at the amazing peaks with a cold beer or a cup of coffee.

But you can easily make the trip one day shorter without missing feel of the amazing settings and without stressing.

Any how – for city slickers like us the trip was mind-blowing. So if you only have a few weeks in Nepal and feel that time is too short for the mountains and really don’t feel like trekking at all, by combining the two you not only get the Magic of Himalaya – you turn the domestic travel between destinations into an adventure itself. And you get away from the hassle of mass tourism.

Except for the days in Mustang where a 4WD is a must you can go on your own using public transportation – perfect for young backpackers traveling on a shoe string without deadlines.

We recommend to spend money on a private car. It gives you the freedom & flexibility to do as you want. It is of course the most expensive way to get around – nut since we never recommend domestic flights the cost isn’t that big. Especially if you can fill up a cars (4 persons).

And don’t worry about accommodation. In Kathmandu, Pokhara, Chitwan & Lumbini you have from modest and cheap Back-packer hostels to expensive 5 star Hotels. In Mustang you sleep in Tea Houses or small hotels in various categories – but all are cosy and clean and all you need.

The Perfect Nepal itinerary that you can extend as you wish depending on tour time and your interest

Kathmandu (2 nights)
Mustang (3 Nights)
Pokhara (1-2 Nights)
Tansen (1 Night)
Lumbini (1-2 Nights)
Chitwan (2 Nights)
Daman (1 Night)
Kathmandu (3 Nights)